Need a new cue hoping for some help
2/8/2010 1:13:13 AM
Need a new cue hoping for some help
Hey all so I am looking to get my second cue, my first was a maple or mahogany sneaky pete with no wrap. I got use to not having a wrap and using a wood cue so I was looking to get another all wood cue. It's main use will be for tournament and recreation play. I am familiar enough using english for cue ball control and for draw and follow shots but I haven't been able to do jump or Massé shots. I want this cue to have a bunch of control so I am looking for a great soft or medium tip. I want to avoid decorative stuff just because it costs more and at this point i have no use for it. I am looking at the McDermott Hustler or some other all wood cue so let me know what you guys would recommend.
Need a new cue hoping for some help
Replies & Comments
Mitch Alsup on 2/8/2010 10:30:38 AM
A propper jump cue will weigh in at 6-12 oz--the lighter the better. Here you need the lightness of the cue to help the cue get out of the way of the CB so the table can throw the CB into the air. You also need a very hard tip so the tip reflects off the CB and helps the cue get out of the way. A propper massé cue will weight in at 24-30 oz--the heavier the better. Here, you need the cue to be heavy so that the tip does not come off the CB and so that maximuim spin can be applied. You will also like soft to medium-soft tips, here. I don't see how you will get both in one cue, nor do I see how you would use one of these to "play" with. That is, these are specialty cues for special pruposes, not general play cues. The closest you can come to a general play cue is to get a jump-break cue and put a hard tip on it so you can break, play, and jump.
Fenwick on 2/8/2010 6:41:46 PM
As far as I know most amateur events require a cue 40" minimum for jump cues. I believe in the APA and or BCA you can only use your playing cue for jump shots. I'll double check. As far as making a massé shot I do quite well with my player cue, 17.75 ounces 11.75 mm. If you're looking for a true Jump Break cue Viper makes a cue that breaks down to 41 3/4 inches. Fully assembled it must weigh around 22 - 24 ounces. I have one but rarely use it for jumping, I only paid $60 for it. I'd have to guess it's weight to be around 17 - 18 ounces with the weight ring supplied broken down for jumping. 1 ounce less without the weight ring.
cooldudes202 on 2/8/2010 10:05:33 PM
OK excuse the previous questions about specialty cues. I would like a cue that has optimal control and is all wood with little details or inlays.
If it's control your after consider getting a cue with a low deflection shaft.
quickshot on 2/9/2010 11:40:23 AMHow much are you looking to spend. That is the main criteria. Please be specific in your wants and needs so you can get a better evaluation. We know you are not interested in bells and whistles so that narrows the field somewhat.
BCA allows jump cues--at least at "big" tournaments. Don't know about APA.
Gentle massés are easy with a play cue, you just have to shoot enough of them to get the hang of it. Gentle in this context means about 1" maximun sideways movement of the CB on the way to the OB. This lets you get a ball you cannot see without taking risks of BIH to the opponent. Big massés; where the direction change is more than 1 inch (or so) is very hard on the tips and shafts. Here, you might send the CB 1-2 feet down table and then bring it back without touching a rail or other ball. So if you want to do these more than a few times, you need a cue designed to take the abuse. Short Bronze ferrules add nose weight and are unbreakable, 14mm untapered shafts are the norm.
For a second play cue: Look at the low deflection shafts (Predator, OB, couple of others) and figure out which one you will "give a go". Then find a low cost butt to fit on that shaft. The Shaft will cost you around $200 so you should budget for at least $250 maybe even $300. {J&J billiards is having a sale on discontinued stuff and some of the low end & sneeky-pete predators are down in this price range.}
I still recommend hard tips for maximum control over the soft and medium tips. It is the chalk that causes the friction between the tip and the CB, not the tip, itself. The tip merely deforms to create an area where the chalk can bite into both the leather and the surface of the CB. Hard tips a: last a long time, b: need little maintanence: c: can impart just as much spin as softer tips. You may have to develop your stroke to get all out of them, but you are going to want to do this anyways.
I am looking to try and stay under $200 but I can spring for $300 if need be.
- quickshot on 2/9/2010 9:27:38 PM
Seyberts.com, ozonebiliards.com, cheapcues.com, billiardswarehouse.com. Thes are the places I have done business with to one degree or another and have never been disappointed with the people I dealth with. Having pointed this out, if you go on any one of the sites you will see that they all pretty much carry the same line of cues and at pretty much the same price. You indicated you want to but your self a new cue so you have a pretty good idea of what to look for in your price range. $2-300 if need be. The above places have a decent return policy and I believe they all offer a FREE carry case with the purchase of a cue. Go to each one and read their policy.
When you talk about control you are thinking low deflection shafts which jacks the price up a little, but well worth it if you are a serious player. I use an OB1 and I like it at about $175(just for the shaft). You then have the predador Z2 and the 314 which are low deflection and very good shafts. There may be a couple of others out there but the above made the mold and started the trend. OB is a little pricey for the complete cue. I think you can do well with the predator. I think it is made by McDermott. My personal preference is a hard tip, 11.75 mm. Yours could and may be different.
You could also mix and match by buying one of the shafts and looking for a cheap cue that has a butt that will fit the shaft. You have to be very careful the joints match. I'm not really a fan of this. It could create a dificult learning curve more so than the one you will experience with the new cue in itself. Be aware of that. You will have to put the time in learning the feel of a new cue. If you are having a problem it is not the cue. It is you getting use to it.
I believe Fenwick uses the Z2 and the 314. I'm sure he will give you his opinion also. he is very knowledgeable.
Thanks for your help everyone, I have plenty of research to do it seems.
- quickshot on 2/10/2010 8:06:43 AM
One more thing. All cue butts are not created equally. I have a couple of butts that weight the exact same weight.The difference is that one is "butt heavy" something you do not really need. One has the weight evenly distributed from front to rear and the other has the weight a little more toward the rear. It can make a difference in the learning curve if you are not aware of it. And believe me, there will be a learning curve with the new cue. When i talk about more weight in the rear I am referring to the thickness of the butt where you would normally grip it. It is a very gradual thing but definetly there.
Let us know what you end up with.
Need a new cue hoping for some help
- Title: Need a new cue hoping for some help
- Author: cooldudes202
- Published: 2/8/2010 1:13:13 AM
